I have been wrestling with old antique family photos - positive color slides, b&w prints, daguerrotypes, sepia prints, color prints, and color negatives since the turn of the century. My LightRoom catalogue contains over 4000 images captured with my Nikon LS 40 scanner, over a 1000 images scanned with an Epson V700 flat bed scanner, and I have photographed with DSLRs another 1000 frames or more, I have lost count, even within Lightroom.
Getting the "scan" is just the beginning, because if the images are really important to you, you may also want to crop them, color correct them( trust me they won't be color corrected only by scanning ), and edit them in LR or Photoshop or both. Many images will contain dirt or mold spots on the paper or emulsion, that can be improved or removed to make them more satisfactory, but that is not a brief task. I estimate each scan or copy takes me about 5-15 minutes depending on how much effort I want to make. Some images are even upscaled, and passed through LAB color space sometimes, but some of the images may be worth the effort.
What scanning software are you going to use? I have used VueScan for over 15 years, so I am pretty comfortable with it. I am quite aware that folks recommend saving files to tiffs, but I find good jpgs take a lot lot less space, and if color balance is ok, that they are easy to process.
Many of the slides from the 1940s that my father shot are not that sharp - Kodachrome had an ISO of about 12, so hand held images required shutter speeds too long to hold still easily, and the camera had zone focusing, so my scanner with only about 4000 pixels is more than adequate to render them. Assuming a subject in the sun, resulted in an exposure of about f8, 1/50th at ISO 12. - If one's subject was in the shade, your shutter speed would drop to 1/6th of a second, unless you opened up your aperture, and many lenses weren't much faster than f4 or so wide open. So many old images by nonprofessional photographers aren't that sharp. The professionals images were routinely tack sharp even in the 19th century.
This is me in Fort Sam Houston in the winter of 1944-45 - my hand is blurred due to motion, but the building is pretty sharp, and the color balance seems pretty fair for a 75 year old Kodachrome 828 slide.
Here is an image I made of a great great grandfather from the late 19th century - the original print was only abut 4x5 inches or less but it was a professional portrait from the 1880's or so - copied by DSLR, and edited and cleaned and tidied up to achieve this image which I like. It is not a perfect image, but a much more satisfactory one than the image I started with - the dust motes, mold, and dirt have all been remedied.
As for metadata about who, where, when , why and other pertinent imformation - I impart some of that information in the title of the scan itself, and much more in a text field in the scan saved by VueScan. You can find VueScan here. Or one can use SilverFast or other scanning software. WIth good addition of metadata to the files, searching for an image in Lightroom or Mojave is a simple fast task, the importance of which really only becomes apparent when you have 1000s and 1000s of images
Old images, slides, negatives, daguerrotypes, or prints have gathered aquired defects with the passage of time, whether color balance, dust or dirt or scratches, or MAYBE they were less than perfect when they were originally captured - Many of these issues CAN be ameliorated, with an investement in time and effort, but they will not be simply fixed in scanning.... Sometimes some color images are better served, in my hands at least, by converting them to monochrome B&W images, rather than tryng and failing to get a good color balance.
I suspect this is why vegasphotog has generously offered to buy you a soda after you complete your task...👍🏻😮
If you have specific questions I will be happy to offer my suggestions as to how I have dealt with various issues. I tend to use a flat bed scanner for printed documents, and a DSLR on a tripod with a cable release to copy prints if they can be made to lie flat. If a print is highly curved, I may scan it on a flat bed scanner then.