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    • @Pathfinder I am learning allot thanks to your comments, thank you. I have an app for my Olympus that works perfect as remote monitor (and much more), and thought something similar may exist for other cameras?

    • Absolutely fascinating, Pathfinder. Once upon a time I was shooting a pano of SF at night with a 600mm Canon lens and I just couldn't get sharpness. I thought I had tried everything and a couple of pros told me many people had tried that shot and all were defeated in getting sharpness enough for a big print.

      I vented about it to Marc Muench and he asked me what shutter speed I was using. I said usually 1 second, sometimes 0.5. He encouraged me to try 4 seconds because, he said, even with mirror up, the shutter movement creates enough vibration despite using the sturdiest tripods, so you get something like 0.2 seconds of vibration that spoils the shot. At 4 seconds it's much less a factor.

      I tried it and he was right, at least for the heavy tripod and 5D MKII I was shooting with at the time. It sounds more complicated for you because the moon is moving so fast.

      The other factor for me was the flickering light I was seeing as I photographed the city. It was because the air and sea temps were different, so thermal waves rising from the water.

      Several pros said to defeat that you need a longer exposure to average out the flickering. Didn't work. What did work is finding a higher perch above the bay and hence above the thermals, so no light bending and flickering.

      Was one advantage for you pointing straight up that you got the least amount of atmospheric interference?

    • To get some decent details in a Moon shot (Bit like Mushroom shots) you need some side light on the craters so full moons aren't the best for seeing crater details, For blood moons you don’t have much choice but to start to see details look for some shots slightly off full even quarter moons make decent detail shots. This one was on the 7DmkII with the Sigma 150 to 600mm sports at 600mm taken at 1/50 of a second f8 and ISO 100.  I found anything slower than 1/50 I got the movement in the moon, Guess if you had it on a tracking mount you’d be OK, but for straight images at 600mm anything slower than 1/50 the movement of the moon was to great. For these I use live view, which is the equivalent of mirror lock up, no camera strap fitted tripod fully locked down, using a wireless remote trigger. The other trick is focus, in live view zoom in using ten times magnification and focus manually, not easy as any attempt to focus the image moves about, let it settle down once your happy takes about 30 seconds to fully settle down before taking the shot. My plan is to get a series of these during the different phases and try and focus stack these to get a decent cratered image. in the image below the left side is smooth but I have other images at different phases which show that side just as cratered as the section closer to the shadow. Well that’s my aim for one day, so far the images I've got haven't worked, so work in progress, longer term project. Guess you have to have something to work at.  

    • Dracula - the apps you linked for using a iPhone LCD display as a wireless monitor are very interesting and I will give that a whirl with my Panasonic GX8 but I don't think those apps will work with Canon, but I will look for similar type apps for Canon bodies.

      Chris, shooting across long stretches of water always carries a significant risk of thermal air curents and variations in the humidity of the air causing optical distortions - these become especially noticeable with lenses longer than 400mm and when the water is warmer than the overlying air - as it was on February 7, 2008 when I was in Florida with friends shooting an evening shuttle launch from across the Inlet. I was amazed how the view through a 300mm+2X TC swirled and distorted - once the launch vehicle got a bit of altitude, the optics were much, much better - as can be seen here

      I am used to seeing the thermal distortion in the summertime, shooting across a heated plain between 10am and 2pm, but I was very surprised to experience thermal air distortion in Yellowstone at 10 am in February trying to photograph wolves across a large snow field in 12ºF weather - I had never thought of thermal distortion at temperatures way below freezing, but it definitely can occur if the air is warming up relative to ground.

      Glenn's comments about side lighting are spot on. Somewhere I saw a equation or algorithm for focal length and shutter speed for astrophotography and lunar photography but I can't seem to find a link right now. I do know that images of the moon shot by me at 1/10th, or 1/20th of a second at 500-700mm do ( sometimes at least ) show the starfield background as round sharp images - not lines, so the stars movement is not significant even though the moon is moving much faster relative to the stars. I do agree that shutter speeds of more than 1/5th or 1/10th of a second really need an equatorial mount to move the camera along the moon's path. A GEQ mount is on my shopping list. Glenns description of live view focusing is indeed the technique I used for the solar eclipse in Wyoming with a m4/3s GX8 and a Panasonic 100-400. The moveable rotateable LCD screen makes is much easier, than one fixed on the back of a Canon body looking directly vertical.

    • I just thought - what would a telescope image look like - and sure enough found few.. quite captivating. In fact a telescope is just a bigger, more special lens, in layman terms I suppose. But there are some amazing details they seem to expose.

    • Pathfinder which Canon bodies are you using, there’s a canon app that allows remote shooting including focus and settings adjustments works on 5dmk4 and 7dmkii the later you need a wifi card in the sd card slot, both 6 d models also work. So you can use iPhones or iPads to view and drive the camera. I use it if doing any bird photography near nests I can set up the camera and walk away and control it from a distance aperture, shutter speed and ISO as well as focus points and of cause shutter button. So worth a look if you have the right bodies, some of there other bodies may have this as well so worth checking. The apps called Camera connect from Canon. Good luck.

    • Glen, I use several Canon bodies, a 5D Mk IV and a 1DX Mk II are my main ones, but I also use a 7D Mk fairly often, and I use a 70D as a walkabout snap shooter when I want to just travel fast and light. So the app you suggested may work fine for me - I do have a mini IPad 4 that should work very nicely. I just need to figure out how to mount it in a hot shoe. Canon is selling 7D Mk IIs with a SD style card with WiFi that should link with an iPad easily too.

      On different note, I spent some time reading about the new Olympus body but may just settle for a Panasonic DC-G9 due to its lower cost and a similar number of pixels

    • the 5d4 will work as is you just need the app, then you can drive the camera from the iPad it doesn’t have to be mounted to the camera as it creates its own local WiFi network. But if you want it mounted there’s probable a few hot shoe (cold shoe in this case) mounts about. Souls like you have very similar set up to my less the 1dx which I don’t have. I also still use the 60d for all my mushroom shoots.

      The new Olympus looks nice and I’m certainly watching that, could make a great travel camera, I’ll play with one when they come out and see what I think, my brother already uses the OMD1mk2 and loves it. For now I’m firmly in Canon glass for now at least, waiting to see what the next 1dx is next year or late this year if it also goes the R route. We’ll see interesting to watch. I do like some of the features like live view capture for long exposures where the scene is painted on the LCD or the pro-capture feature both would love to have on my ones.

      I use the wifi shooting on both the 5d and 7dmk2 but it does drain batteries both camera and phone, so don’t expect hours of it. I don’t use it that often but at times comes in handy,

      Good luck.