I've been lucky enough to have been out there once. The most prominent memory that I have is the fear that overcame me the first time a wall of water came rushing towards the boat. As the wave approached us, there was a moment when the water level was well above the boat. My immediate thought was that we'd be capsized and it was terrifying. Of course everything was fine, but then I realized what it must feel like to be in the water on a surfboard. 😱
📷: One of the unedited photos I took.