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    • Ok, my pier layout has been strung out on site, and I spent some time squaring it up. I love how precise the total station is. You spend much less time measuring and tweaking diagonals when you have a good transit on site.

      Now, I've wrapped up enough modeling to be able to quite definitely say how I intend to stay under the County height limit (I'm a bit more than 1/2" shy of the limit, but the shingles will eat up that margin. Any additional overage will need to be accounted for by literally raising the dirt/gravel at the side of the shed.

    • Since I have little interest in building an optimization algorithm into a Sketchup add-on, I bring it into a spreadsheet, and code in some basic rounding algorithm based on whether the piece uses over 50% of the board, and throw it into a pivot table for a quick BoM.

    • :) Standing in the rain while opening a front door is one of my (many) pet peaves. I know it looks like I started with a 12x16 shed and carved in a covered entryway. But I actually started with an 8x10 prefab concept with a 4:12 roof pitch, and the lack of cover at the front door bugged me. It's bad for the user in the rain. It's also bad for longevity, as the moisture exposure will eventually warp the door. I added a covered entryway and grew the shed around it till it became 12x16 w/ a 3:12 roof. Looking at my local code restrictions (max 200sqft before they start requiring permits and reviews) it just seemed logical...go as big as I can w/o tons of oversight, and address my pet peaves. In my experience...I can always use the extra space. :)

      Windows are going to be 24" tall prefabs. Side-sliding double-pane low-e glass...mostly so that UV-fading inside the shed doesn't get to be a problem. A square one on the gable end. A longer one on the front face of the shed.

      Doors, on the other hand...homemade from 2x4s, and 1/2" ply. I found some nice turnbuckle braces to help keep things square over the years. And I'll probably try to mortise in hinges, instead of exposed barn hinges, and keep things closed with set of flush bolts on the passive door, and a french door reinforcement kit, instead of the basic barrel bolts. The active door will have a standard lockable t-handle. But it's going to also have a rugged padlock hasp. You'll certainly be able to break into this place. But you'll have to bring a prybar and a saw.

    • Days like yesterday make me wonder if I had a buddy with a backhoe whether we'd save time and effort with a PTO auger, or if we'd just spend our day futzing around with the backhoe. But I just got to it and started digging. With the right tools, it's not all that hard to make progress. Body weight and leverage makes quick work getting down to 18" depth with a trenching spade. It slows down getting to 24", but not by much. Then a post hole digger makes cleanup easy. The roots required a little patience. But switching to a sawzall also makes quick work of those too. I went back to square my piers again with the transit and filled the holes back up with enough fill to keep the piers from moving too much. I've got one more pier to sink and set. Then I'm gluing and screwing my doubed rim joists. I'll need to order up a couple of tons of gravel soon too.

    • This is incredible, Driveshaft. You have definitely taken shed-building to a level far beyond what I ever imagined. My projects look half baked by comparison. It's quite fascinating to follow.

      My father-in-law is a brick mason by trade and he built a workshop in his backyard with a poured concrete floor and walls of cinder block that has been a mecca for him for I'd guess 20 years. It has two electric garage doors so he could restore a Mustang in there. He's pretty much out there all day every day making fancy wooden boxes for his grandkids or something.

      I wish I had pics to show, but you can see a little bit of it from this shot of the guns he was refinishing for the Legion of Honor:

    • I looked at a whole bunch of shelving options when building my garage. But they were all so expensive compared to building them myself, and building them myself meant I could have a stronger design that was custom built to maximize space.

      I built the shelve tops out of 3/4" Aaruco ACX 4x8' ply then treated it with Thompson Water Seal on the top so I can wipe them down when they get dirty. I painted the bottoms and the doug fir semi gloss white so it looks pretty and light reflects better to keep the garage as bright as possible. I supported the ply with 4x4's on the outside and 2x4 ledgers. The 4x4's seems a little overkill but the shelves are 3' deep and span 20'. Per square foot of shelving area, building them myself was like 3x cheaper for the same strength shelving. And they optimize space.

      I hung the shelves with 5/8" threaded rod from superstrut. SDS lags hold the superstrut to the TJI's in the ceiling. I hung the shelves so I can still park in the garage. No posts in the way. Probably not a design needed in a shed.

    • That's sweet. I'd love to walk the stations and check out how he has it equipped. I really want to dedicate a serious bit of space to be a "Maker's lab". But between the wood working and the metal fabrication... You have to economize your space. I'd pretty much spend all my time there too.

    • My wife is there now and I'll have her take some pics. Here are the guns after refinishing that they use several times a weekend for 21-gun salutes. That big air tank you saw was for a compressor to spray varnish and paint.

    • When my wife and I were digging post holes, our dirt was too hard for us. I went down to the rental place and got a motorized post hole digger. It took both of us and we still got worked, but it was better and we were able to get it through our narrowish gate to the back yard.

    • Wow, 4x4s at the perimeter sure is beefy! I have a similar arrangement in my carport, hung for the same reason--parking underneath. But I punted to a premade arrangement using powder-coated steel angles and channels.

      In the shed you're right, my needs will be different. II probably ought to take a closer look at how I'm going to use the space, because 192sqft sounds kinda big, but I suspect poor planning will make that space evaporate quickly. A big chunk will be bicycles, and bike maintenance. Another big chunk to our backyard entertainment and camping equipment...then there's car maintenance stuff....hmm...yeah...I better put some thought into this. :)

    • wow, that’s just crazy how they dug that trench with compressed air. I had my wife take photos of her dad’s workshop and I’ll post them in the morning.

    • 192sqft sounds kinda big, but I suspect poor planning will make that space evaporate quickly.

      My garage has 16" shelves at 42" off the ground. I have a bench grinder and a drill press sitting on them now. This is the perfect height for working on things. But at 16" wide, it's not very useful. I'm considering building a shelve that folds out for a a deeper workbench. Might also be something that's useful in a small shed.

    • Inside. This is a table he's making for his granddaughter and her husband. He's insanely good at making furniture with a beautiful variety of wood.

    • So, one thing I changed from my original plan was switching from 2x6's using 3 rows of beams (and 12 piers) to 2 2x8's. Building the base out of 2x6's sounded nice to me at first because it keeps the overall height of the floor close to the ground. But it also meant needing quite a few piers to keep the flex in the floor from getting "noodley". You can check out industry standard beam span tables to see what are recommended beam spans and joist spans for a variety of beam sizes (which varies by wood species).

    • What I ended up switching to was *doubled-up* 2x8s beamand 2x8 joists 16" on center, which put me right at the upper limit of what the beam span tables told me was "smart" to build to--12' spans. The upside being that I would have to dig only 8 piers instead of 12 (the digging is not so's the labor of *leveling* that's a pain). I had some questions though about doubling up the beams, though, because whenever you have two pieces of wood in contact with each other, water will tend to stick around that joint, and will over time rot the wood. So, I was debating how to double up the rim joists w/o introducing a vulnerability. I was also questioning the wisdom of being a the top end of the recommended span distance.