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    • I met the CEO of this company on 4th of July watching fireworks. His product blows my mind. He ships this stuff all of the world. Less-expensive, easy to build, LEEDS-green certified, etc, etc. Lame website and marketing. http://gigacrete.com/gigahouse/

      Amazing insulation properties, ZERO moisture retainment, and, can easily rebuff a 50cal mortar.

    • Dang, I love that tree house!!

      Yes, compared to our neighbors, we are doing things surprisingly "by-the-book". At least...we're designing to meet it. We'll see if we actually remember to file the paperwork. Our neighbors have stuff that's completely violating code. One put up a 4' retaining wall, and then *another* 7' fence on top of that. (code allows *either* a 7' wall *or* a 7' fence). The other has a complete disaster of a shed built way too tall, which just collapsed. That corner of the neighborhood pretty much does whatever the heck they want.

    • I'm a data analyst (python, javascript, sql type stuff) normally. But I did spend a few years in my youth as an engineer and architect. I just never *actually* built anything I had spec'd, lol.

      8'6" is max from dirt to roof ridge. So, I'm eyeballing the roof pitch pretty carefully, because at too shallow of a roof, I can no longer use cheap shingle roofing, because it doesn't shed water well enough. It'll be tight getting a workable wall / door / roof overhang height, that I won't hit my head on. :)

      Foundation--I think I'm setting skids on piers, and doing a wood floor. The biggest concerns are the softness of the surface soil and the need to accomodate occasionally significant surface water. It'll need *some* elevation. Skids will help with that. It's fairly easy to work with and fairly inexpensive.

      Perimeter foundation would offer too much center deflection unless I use ridiculously sized joists.

      A concrete slab would distribute weight nicely, and can add height. But it's an annoying proposition to pour a foundation, though because the creek prevents you from gettting any serious equipment back there, so you're humping in the concrete bags and mixing it there...setting up the rebar...then waiting for cure time.

      And seeing how soft the soil is, I certainly can't count on simple on-grade foundations; that stuff will just sink right down.

      Setting piers down deeper into the earth will keep the structure in place. I will probably be lazy and use the old small concrete slab where my skids run above it, because the idea of busting up all that mesh-reinforced concrete is back breaking, even if you've jack-hammered it to pieces.

      So...local code says frost line is 24" down. That'll be the depth of my piers.

      I think I'm going to use this "redi-footing" product, actually, for the piers. Again...no concrete sounds appealing to me. I'll still need nearly 3 tons of gravel though, to level out the land and provide drainage. So there'll be plenty of work. :)

    • Awesome! Sounds like you have some great plans.

      Have you ever seen the things you can do with used shipping containers? I've always wanted to build an external office or entertaining space with one. It's pretty amazing what people (and companies) are doing. I bet it could make a really awesome shed.


    • I love how creative people get with shipping containers. But this place I'm putting this shed in on is not ever going to be a "beautiful scene." It's, a forgotten corner of the property, and it backs up to a giant shithole disaster that used to be a shed, and a ridiculously giant fence...on...a...wall.

      Here's what it looks like today. Im' pretty sure if I wanted to, I could do a few things to make the wall look nicer. But at the moment, that would be project #931 on my list of crap to get done. :) So...I'm ok if I just manage to build something that won't fall down...keeps my stuff safe 'n dry, and is built to code.

      What you see in that pic is me setting up batter boards, to sight my initial layout of piers.

    • And seeing how soft the soil is, I certainly can't count on simple on-grade foundations; that stuff will just sink right down.

      Piers and skids sound like the best approach. Frost line is a foreign concept to me since I live in the sunny, coastal California. Our groundwater never freezes. But the one thing I know: always get below the frost line if your ground ever freezes! A thin slab won't cut it, but even if you had a piers and a slab on top, 200 sq ft with a 4 in thick slab is 2.5 yards of concrete. Which is approximately 120 60-pound bags. Yikes, carrying that much concrete across a creek by hand would break your back! You'd really need a concrete pump.

      Setting piers down deeper into the earth will keep the structure in place. I will probably be lazy and use the old small concrete slab where my skids run above it, because the idea of busting up all that mesh-reinforced concrete is back breaking, even if you've jack-hammered it to pieces.

      And it's extremely expensive to remove! It's like $50 yard in my area to dispose. Like 50% the actual cost of the concrete.

    • Ok, my pier layout has been strung out on site, and I spent some time squaring it up. I love how precise the total station is. You spend much less time measuring and tweaking diagonals when you have a good transit on site.

      Now, I've wrapped up enough modeling to be able to quite definitely say how I intend to stay under the County height limit (I'm a bit more than 1/2" shy of the limit, but the shingles will eat up that margin. Any additional overage will need to be accounted for by literally raising the dirt/gravel at the side of the shed.

    • Since I have little interest in building an optimization algorithm into a Sketchup add-on, I bring it into a spreadsheet, and code in some basic rounding algorithm based on whether the piece uses over 50% of the board, and throw it into a pivot table for a quick BoM.

    • :) Standing in the rain while opening a front door is one of my (many) pet peaves. I know it looks like I started with a 12x16 shed and carved in a covered entryway. But I actually started with an 8x10 prefab concept with a 4:12 roof pitch, and the lack of cover at the front door bugged me. It's bad for the user in the rain. It's also bad for longevity, as the moisture exposure will eventually warp the door. I added a covered entryway and grew the shed around it till it became 12x16 w/ a 3:12 roof. Looking at my local code restrictions (max 200sqft before they start requiring permits and reviews) it just seemed logical...go as big as I can w/o tons of oversight, and address my pet peaves. In my experience...I can always use the extra space. :)

      Windows are going to be 24" tall prefabs. Side-sliding double-pane low-e glass...mostly so that UV-fading inside the shed doesn't get to be a problem. A square one on the gable end. A longer one on the front face of the shed.

      Doors, on the other hand...homemade from 2x4s, and 1/2" ply. I found some nice turnbuckle braces to help keep things square over the years. And I'll probably try to mortise in hinges, instead of exposed barn hinges, and keep things closed with set of flush bolts on the passive door, and a french door reinforcement kit, instead of the basic barrel bolts. The active door will have a standard lockable t-handle. But it's going to also have a rugged padlock hasp. You'll certainly be able to break into this place. But you'll have to bring a prybar and a saw.

    • Days like yesterday make me wonder if I had a buddy with a backhoe whether we'd save time and effort with a PTO auger, or if we'd just spend our day futzing around with the backhoe. But I just got to it and started digging. With the right tools, it's not all that hard to make progress. Body weight and leverage makes quick work getting down to 18" depth with a trenching spade. It slows down getting to 24", but not by much. Then a post hole digger makes cleanup easy. The roots required a little patience. But switching to a sawzall also makes quick work of those too. I went back to square my piers again with the transit and filled the holes back up with enough fill to keep the piers from moving too much. I've got one more pier to sink and set. Then I'm gluing and screwing my doubed rim joists. I'll need to order up a couple of tons of gravel soon too.

    • This is incredible, Driveshaft. You have definitely taken shed-building to a level far beyond what I ever imagined. My projects look half baked by comparison. It's quite fascinating to follow.

      My father-in-law is a brick mason by trade and he built a workshop in his backyard with a poured concrete floor and walls of cinder block that has been a mecca for him for I'd guess 20 years. It has two electric garage doors so he could restore a Mustang in there. He's pretty much out there all day every day making fancy wooden boxes for his grandkids or something.

      I wish I had pics to show, but you can see a little bit of it from this shot of the guns he was refinishing for the Legion of Honor:

    • I looked at a whole bunch of shelving options when building my garage. But they were all so expensive compared to building them myself, and building them myself meant I could have a stronger design that was custom built to maximize space.

      I built the shelve tops out of 3/4" Aaruco ACX 4x8' ply then treated it with Thompson Water Seal on the top so I can wipe them down when they get dirty. I painted the bottoms and the doug fir semi gloss white so it looks pretty and light reflects better to keep the garage as bright as possible. I supported the ply with 4x4's on the outside and 2x4 ledgers. The 4x4's seems a little overkill but the shelves are 3' deep and span 20'. Per square foot of shelving area, building them myself was like 3x cheaper for the same strength shelving. And they optimize space.

      I hung the shelves with 5/8" threaded rod from superstrut. SDS lags hold the superstrut to the TJI's in the ceiling. I hung the shelves so I can still park in the garage. No posts in the way. Probably not a design needed in a shed.

    • That's sweet. I'd love to walk the stations and check out how he has it equipped. I really want to dedicate a serious bit of space to be a "Maker's lab". But between the wood working and the metal fabrication... You have to economize your space. I'd pretty much spend all my time there too.

    • My wife is there now and I'll have her take some pics. Here are the guns after refinishing that they use several times a weekend for 21-gun salutes. That big air tank you saw was for a compressor to spray varnish and paint.

    • When my wife and I were digging post holes, our dirt was too hard for us. I went down to the rental place and got a motorized post hole digger. It took both of us and we still got worked, but it was better and we were able to get it through our narrowish gate to the back yard.

    • Wow, 4x4s at the perimeter sure is beefy! I have a similar arrangement in my carport, hung for the same reason--parking underneath. But I punted to a premade arrangement using powder-coated steel angles and channels.

      In the shed you're right, my needs will be different. II probably ought to take a closer look at how I'm going to use the space, because 192sqft sounds kinda big, but I suspect poor planning will make that space evaporate quickly. A big chunk will be bicycles, and bike maintenance. Another big chunk to our backyard entertainment and camping equipment...then there's car maintenance stuff....hmm...yeah...I better put some thought into this. :)

    • wow, that’s just crazy how they dug that trench with compressed air. I had my wife take photos of her dad’s workshop and I’ll post them in the morning.

    • 192sqft sounds kinda big, but I suspect poor planning will make that space evaporate quickly.

      My garage has 16" shelves at 42" off the ground. I have a bench grinder and a drill press sitting on them now. This is the perfect height for working on things. But at 16" wide, it's not very useful. I'm considering building a shelve that folds out for a a deeper workbench. Might also be something that's useful in a small shed.